DIY Disco Mirror Jr.

Look who made another disco mirror after saying she was never going to do it again looooooool. This one was for a good cause though, and if there was ever going to be a reason for me to make another disco mirror, DIY for a Cure is the reason. Every year DIY for a Cure puts on a week of DIY devoted to raising money for childhood cancer research with the goal of reaching $100,000. They host a ton of raffles to win amazing items from brands and anyone can participate as a DIYer by offering up something to raffle off. You see where I’m going with this? Yup, I got down to business glueing tiny 5mm mirrors once again, this time with the goal of raising $1000 for DIY for a Cure.

I made this one slightly different than my full length mirror version I finished in February. I intentionally made that one to be more like melted disco balls and so I used spray foam to create the forms. For this one, I wanted it to be more like half-disco balls all joined together, so the base for this one is styrofoam spheres I grabbed at Michaels. I joined them together using spray foam that I carved so that each ball seamlessly blended into its neighbors.

Knowing that this mirror was going to be sent to someone else, I was also much more intentional about making sure it was finished really professionally. I covered the mirror with paper while I worked so the surface of the mirror didn’t get scratched while I’m working (unfortunately my big mirror is covered in scratches from working on it uncovered for months). I also spray painted the balls silver before putting the mirrors on so any blank spots would be silver (TBH I could probably have skipped this— using 5mm mirrors the coverage is pretty solid, but had I been using 10mm mirrors I think there would probably be more visible gaps).

Anyway, I’m so so thrilled with how this one turned out and I’m a little sad to have to send it off, but I’m also thrilled that someone else will get these sparkle disco vibes in their life!

There’s one more day left to enter to win this mirror! A $50 donation to my DIY for a Cure page gets you entered to win! Just donate, screenshot your donation and DM it to me, and you’re entered to win! The raffle entries close at 6pm Pacific on Sunday Oct 8th, 2023.

DIY Hog Panel Trellis

Over the past three years, I’ve slowly built and added on to our garden, and now that the essential layout and garden beds are done, I’m moving on to fleshing it out with elements that help define the space and give it a cozier feel. When we bought this house, it really just felt like the house was dropped onto a totally empty lot with no landscaping to speak of, so adding in things that help the house feel integrated with the land and neighborhood has been part of our long-term exterior goals.

I’ve spent a couple years building raised beds for our vegetable/pollinator garden, but last year when I built the patio and pergola area in the back of our house, I realized that you could see all the way to that area from the front, so I wanted to create a little more privacy, with something for climbing plants to vine on. While I was walking the aisles of Home Depot, I saw a garden bed trellis made with Wild Hog fence panels and I knew that would be the perfect solution, since we already had garden beds right where I wanted trellis to go.

I’d built the pergola last year using LINX brackets and Wild Hog fence panels, so I was familiar with and loved those products already, so using them to create this trellis situation seemed like the perfect fit.

What you’ll need:

Materials (per 3.5 x 6.5 ft trellis):
2-  10ft 4x4 treated lumber
1-  8 ft 4x4 treated lumber
1-  36x72in Wild Hog Panel
1-  6ft Wild Hog Tracks kit
2-  4x4 LINX L-Fit Brackets
4-  3in Exterior Wood Screws
Gravel or Concrete for setting posts

Tools:

Circular Saw
Impact Driver/Drill
Angle Grinder
Tape Measure
Speed Square

1. Start by inserting one of the 10ft 4x4s into the first LINX L-Fit brackets. Make sure the 4x4 goes all the way in, so that when you look inside from the other side, you see it fully inserted. Then slide in the 8ft (for the 36in wide panel, or 6ft for the 60in wide panel) 4x4, so that its inserted fully and touches the 10ft 4x4 you’ve already inserted.

2. Lay your Wild Hog panel in the middle where it will eventually go, with about a 1/4 - 1/2 in gap on all sides. Mark the width of that top 4x4 using your speed square, remove from the bracket, and cut on your mark.

3. Insert the other 10ft 4x4 to the second LINX bracket, then reinsert the top 4x4 you just cut, then secure the brackets using the screws provided with the LINX brackets.

4. Open your Hog Track kit, you’ll have two 3ft tracks and two 6ft tracks. If you’re building a trellis using 36in wide Wild Hog Panel, you’ll need to cut the 3ft track to fit between the LINX Brackets (you won’t need to do this for the wider trellis using the 60in panel). You’ll also need to cut the excess off the bottom of the 6ft tracks to fit between the bottom of the LINX bracket and the bottom of the panel.

5. Cut the tracks using your angle grinder, then spray the cut end with black spray paint.

6. Mark the center of all of your 4x4s at 1 3/4in, this is where you’ll install the hog tracks. I used my speed square, holding my pencil at 1 3/4 and sliding the base of the square along the edge of the 4x4.

7. Using the provided screws, attach the Hog Tracks along this line.

Repeat this process for each side.

8. With the three sides installed, slide your panel in all the way. Once the panel is in, you can build and install the bottom piece.

9. Measure the inner width between the upright 4x4s and cut your final section of 4x4 to fit. If you’re making a trellis using the 36in panel, you’ll need to cut about 1in off your final 3ft Hog Track, so it will fit between the vertical Hog Tracks on either side. Again, mark the center of the 4x4, and install that Hog Track. You can then slide this up so the panel slips inside that bottom track.

10. Secure this bottom piece by toenailing in using 3in exterior screws.

11. At the location where you’re going to install your trellis, measure and mark where the posts will go. Using a post hole digger, dig a hole about 38-42in deep.

12. Place about an inch or so of gravel in the base of the hole, then (with a friend— these trellises are heavy!) slide the trellis posts into the holes.

13. You can secure this trellis either using quick-setting concrete, or I simply filled in around the posts using gravel. Since my garden plan is constantly in flux, I wanted to make sure I had the option to move these in the future if my plans change, and gravel keeps them secure without making them 100% permanent.

If you’re also wanting to build some of these corrugated metal raised beds, they’re one of my favorite budget-friendly and (IMHO) cool-looking garden beds. You can find my tutorial for those here!

Our existing arbor that you can see is a Home Depot find, I’m not finding the exact model but you can see a very similar one here.

DIY Vintage Winnebago Kids Bunk Bed

Jack’s little Winnie bunk bed is hands down one of my favorite (and one of my easiest) DIY projects. You could obviously use this method to create any number of cool shapes— I made a version of this as a submarine for a local preschool— but I thought it would be so fun to give Jack a kiddo version of my grown-up-real-life Winnebago Brave.

Here’s what I used for this project:

Materials:
1/8 in 4x8ft Utility Panel
3/4 in screws
Finish Washers
White and Yellow Paint
Ikea Kura Bed
Ikea Trofast Shelf

Tools:
Impact Driver/Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw

Here’s the diagram for all the measurements I used to cut and paint mine. These measurements will fit the Kura bed, but you may need to modify if you’re using a different base bed (though it shouldn’t be too much different since it’s a standard twin size bed length).

1. Cut out your plywood panel using the measurements. I used a circular saw for the larger straight cuts and then a jigsaw for the interior window cuts.

2. Paint two coats of white on the whole thing (you could do both sides, but I left the inside raw wood).

3. Use masking tape to mask off the RV stripes and paint two coats of yellow (or whatever color you prefer)

4. Attach the RV panel to the Kura bed using screws and finish washers. You can touch up paint over the screws to help them look less obvious. I did a few along the top, and a few along the bottom.

That’s it! On mine, I covered up the area on the bed where the ladder goes with the RV panel, so I used the Trofast shelf as a set of stairs so Jack could climb up to the bed. I initially had a play kitchen inside so it felt like a real mini RV, but now that Jack is a little older and the play kitchen isn’t his speed, we turned it into a little gaming den where he can play Minecraft with Dan. Super cute!

Ikea Hack Library Built-in

Jack’s library wall is done! This Ikea hack built-in bookshelf was such a fun project to tackle. This build was partially created from Ikea Billy bookcases. The top section of cubbies that spans the entire wall is custom built from scratch, and the shelves below that are the Billy bookcases. Everything was custom trimmed out and secured to the wall to be fully built-in and permanent!

This wall was originally space that was really unusable. You could put a dresser or bookshelves in the wider section of wall, but it’s also behind the swing of the door, so no seating or bed could be against that wall. I had an Ikea Kallax shelf there for a few years, holding Jack’s books, games, and toys, but as he’s started reading more and getting more into board games, I quickly ran out of space on that shelf. Transforming the wall into a floor-to-ceiling bookcase felt like the perfect way to add so much storage and functionality to this room.

Project Cost Breakdown

Plywood for top shelves: $119.50

Ikea Billy Bookcases (3x 16in wide and 1x 32in): $236.00

White Paint + Paint Brush: $64.98

Primer, Wood Filler, Caulk: $103.87

Trim (various sizes): $180.53

Coral Curtains (used an old existing Ikea curtain rod): $40.26

Project total: $745.14

This total doesn’t include the tools used to complete this project, which I already had. It also doesn’t include fasteners like screws or brad nails, which I also already had on hand. The tools I used to complete this project were:

Circular Saw
Drill + Impact Driver
Table Saw
Pocket Hole Jig
Brad Nailer
Corner Clamps

For this project, I decided to use Ikea Billy bookcases for the bottom section of shelves, then custom build the top section that spans the entire wall, going over the closet doorway.

I began by building the Ikea Billy bookcases. I needed to install all the shelves so I could fill all the bracket holes on the insides with wood filler. This really makes them feel seamless and built-in without all the little holes. Once the wood filler was dry I could take these outside and sand them to smooth out the wood filler and scuff up the laminate finish to prep for primer. I sanded with 220 using my sheet sander, then pulled them into the garage to spray with primer.

Using my Graco X7 paint sprayer I sprayed Zinsser B-I-N primer, which is a shellac based primer that sticks super well to finishes like the laminate Ikea furniture finish. Make sure to wear a respirator mask when spraying it, this stuff is pretty nasty but it works great. I put two coats of primer on.

To install the Ikea bookcases, I needed to measure where my studs were and then I added 1/2in scraps of plywood to the wall where the studs were because the way the back of these bookshelves is constructed leaves about a 1/2in gap between the back panel and the wall, which you can see in the video below

I screwed through the back of the bookshelves, the plywood scrap and into the studs to secure these to the wall, then I got to work building the top section of the library from scratch.

I built this section in two pieces, one piece that spanned over the closet doorway and sat atop the two 16” billy bookcases that flank that doorway, and then a second one that sat atop the 32” bookcase and the 16” bookcase in the corner of the room. I used cabinet grade plywood to build these, which was about $55/sheet at Home Depot, and then used hardboard for the back wall.

I mapped out the measurements for all the side panels and inside vertical separators and input those into cutlistoptimizer.com to get an efficient plan for how to utilize my plywood to avoid waste, this was super helpful when it came time to cut every piece.

To assemble these upper boxes, I used my Kreg pocket hole jig and drilled two pocket holes on the top and bottom of the vertical sides of the box, and then used corner clamps to hold everything together nice and square while I screwed the sides on to the bottom of the box. Then I flipped it over to attach the top, again using pocket screws.

To cut the hardboard for the back, I just laid the boxes on the hardboard, traced around their perimeter, and then cut out those rectangles. Those got nailed on to the back of the boxes, then we pulled the boxes inside to temporarily install them on the top of the billy bookcases so I could mark where all the vertical dividers would go in those boxes. I wanted all the dividers to match up perfectly with the sides of the Ikea shelves so things looked seamless from bottom to top.

With those measurements taken, I then brought those boxes back down to the ground and installed the verticals using wood glue and brad nails. The final thing the custom boxes needed was a couple coats of primer, so they went back out to the garage for spraying.

Finally they could be installed permanently, again— screwing them to the studs (these didn’t need that extra plywood because they didn’t have a gap between the back panel and the wall).

Now I’m able to start installing trim and this is where things get really fun because it starts to feel really built in and finished. I had a couple wider vertical sections, and then a wider crown piece and a 2in horizontal that spanned the full wall, but for the most part the fronts of the bookshelf all got 1.5in wide trim: verticals as well as the horizontal shelf fronts. I used by brad nailer to install all of these, making sure to nail in at opposing diagonals for added security.

All the nail holes got filled with wood filler, and all the seams and joints got caulk, then it was time for paint!

I used Behr’s Scuff Defense paint in Satin finish with the color Bit of Sugar, which is a really nice bright white. Two coats later and I was done! I chose to brush and roll the paint on, rather than have to mask off the whole room and drag my big ol paint sprayer into the house. It took a little longer, but I’m happy with how smooth the finish ended up.

Can you believe this is the same room, just a few short years ago? (Okay maybe not short years. We did have a whole pandemic between 2018 and now— it’s actually felt like an eternity since we bought this house).

I’m super proud of how this room has transformed and TBH I think Jack’s room might be my favorite room in the entire house. It’s so bright and happy and fun. It feels really special.

---

You may also like:

Garage Organization Glow Up!

I'm excited to share with you my recent garage organization glow-up! As someone who loves DIY projects and spends a lot of time in my garage, it was time for me to tackle the clutter and create a functional and organized space. Whether you're someone who loves to tinker with tools or simply looking to get your garage in order, this post will provide you with some practical ideas and inspiration to help you transform your space. So, let's get started and dive into the details of my garage organization project!

It feels like we’re always in a battle against the garage shop becoming total chaos, but we made a huge upgrade in the storage situation with these Wall Control panels!

We originally had some screws and nails in the OSB wall that we hung some tools on haphazardly, it worked sort of all right, but it certainly wasn’t anything to write home about. Adding an entire wall of Wall Control panels and hanging accessories made this space work 1000x better, and we’re able to store all of our smaller tools on the wall, giving us so much more floor space in the garage (which is desperately needed).

We were also able to use the cabinets that we salvaged from our kitchen remodel, and used those as base cabinets. These were originally the wall cabinets in the kitchen, so they’re 12” deep (standard base cabinets are 24” deep), which is really nice because things don’t get lost in the back of them and they take up less floor space.

We still have plenty of plans to make this garage/shop as useful and practical as possible, but for now this glow-up has made it feel so much more usable. Now the only challenge is actually getting myself to put my tools away where they belong instead of leaving them in piles around the house…

Here are all the Wall Control products we used to transform this space!

Black Vertical Panels | Black Horizontal Panels | Hooks | Drill Holder | Shelves | Spray Can Holder | Angle Grinder Holder | Hanging Drawer Cabinet | Screwdriver Holder | Long hooks

---

You may also like